The Diamantina Shire covers a vast area of western Queensland – 95,000 square kilometres to be precise – yet it is home to just 300 residents! Encompassing Betoota, Birdsville and Bedourie, you will want to visit these three icons of the Australian outback at least once in your lifetime!
Betoota
Betoota is located a mere 1,421 kilometres west of Brisbane. We travelled to Betoota from Quilpie via Windorah. When travelling in the outback, distances are vast and some of the roads are not great, so it can take you a lot longer to travel a short distance than you might expect.
So we broke up our journey by spending a couple of nights camped on the banks of Coopers Creek at Windorah. We then spent a night camping in the Morney Rest Area on the corner of the Diamantina Development Road and the Birdsville Developmental Road. You can find both of these awesome campsites in Camps Australia Wide.
Haddon Corner
As we had already ticked Cameron Corner off our must-visit list, we were keen to check out Haddon Corner as well.
Haddon Corner is the point where Queensland and South Australia meet. It is located about 40 kilometres off the Birdsville Developmental Road, along a fairly well-formed gravel road.
We chose to leave our van parked at the turnoff, as we had been told there were a couple of sandhills to negotiate before reaching the corner.
It was a great drive to the corner and we loved the vastness of the area. There is a campground at the corner, but no facilities so make sure you carry some extra water if you intend on staying the night.
Deon’s Lookout
For the best views of the area around Betoota, make sure you take a detour up to the top of Deon’s Lookout, where you can see for miles across the vast gibber plains.
Located just 20 kilometres from Betoota, Deon’s Lookout is a memorial to a young stockman, who was killed in a helicopter accident nearby in 1996.
You can easily tow a van to the top and there are plenty of flat spots to park. Overnight camping is permitted and there is also a clean toilet and a picnic area. We loved watching a huge road train loaded with cattle make its way along the road below.
Betoota Hotel
Betoota Hotel is one of those iconic outback pubs that you need to have on your ‘must-visit list. Formerly the Betoota Pub was part of a thriving town and up until March 2020, the Betoota Pub had been closed for 20 years.
Constructed in the late 1880s, this historic pub is once again a popular spot for passing travellers to stay a night and enjoy a yarn or two with the locals.
Meals are available most nights and we enjoyed homemade rissoles and the largest array of fresh salads that we had seen in a while.
Around the pub itself, there is plenty of interesting memorabilia to look at. All whilst enjoying a cold beer or two.
Free camping is available just across from the pub and there are very clean showers and toilets at the rear of the pub. A shower is just $5.00, payable at the bar.
Each year, Betoota plays host to the Betoota Races. This race event attracts visits from all over the country and is the lead event of the Simpson Desert Racing Carnival. At the time of writing, this year the races will be held on Saturday, 27th August 2022.
The Dreamtime Serpent
Just a few kilometres from Betoota, you will find the Dreamtime Serpent art installation, which is part of Sculptures of the Dreamtime.
This beautiful piece of art depicts the Dreamtime Serpent travelling through Mithika Country. It is making pathways connecting the river systems of the Channel Country in the Diamantina Shire.
The Serpent was created using different types of gravel and gibbers found throughout the shire.
Birdsville
In our opinion, you haven’t properly experienced outback Queensland unless you have been to Birdsville. This tiny town is, without doubt, one of Queensland’s most remote. But don’t let that put you off as there are lots to see and do when you visit.
The Birdsville Races are arguably the most famous race meeting in Australia – after the Melbourne Cup of course!
Held each year in September 2022 sees Birdsville celebrate 140 years of racing. These days the race carnival attracts horses and punters from all over the world. With 13 races on the card and prize money totalling $250,000, it’s easy to see why these races are so popular.
At the time of writing, this year the races will be held on the 2nd and 3rd of September 2022, so there is still plenty of time to plan your trip!
Big Red and the Birdsville Big Red Bash
In more recent years, Birdsville has added another hugely popular event to its calendar the Birdsville Big Red Bash music festival.
Held in the foothills of the sand dune known as Big Red, this four-day music event has for the last few years, attracted some of the best-known artists in Australia as well as huge crowds. Already this year’s event (2022) has sold out so if you have this one on your list, make sure you get your tickets early.
For us, we were happy to be able to take our 4WD to the top of Big Red and take in the spectacular views of the plains below. Make sure if you are going to tackle driving up Big Red that you let some air out of your tyres. We let ours down to about 16psi and had no trouble making our way to the top.
Birdsville Hotel
One of the most recognisable and most photographed pubs in Australia, the Birdsville Pub is another fantastic outback Queensland pub. Built in 1884, the memorabilia on the walls inside the pub is outstanding and gives you an insight into the history of the area.
We also found the meals to be excellent and enjoyed a roast night on Sunday and then enjoyed drinks and dinner with friends the following night. I can also highly recommend the Outback Loop Shiraz if you enjoy a glass or two of red!
Other Things to do in Birdsville
Whilst in Birdsville, there are plenty of other things to see and do. Make sure you check out the following.
Wirrarri Visitor Information Centre
The Wirrarri Visitor Information Centre is a great spot to find out all you need to know about Birdsville and also the surrounding area. Plus they have a wonderful display of art and local history.
Royal Hotel
The now-abandoned Royal Hotel was built in 1883 and is listed for restoration and preservation by the National Trust. It was the second hotel built in town and over the years was also used as a school and a hospital.
Birdsville Roadhouse
The Birdsville Roadhouse is so much more than just a roadhouse. As well as selling fuel and offering mechanical and tyre repairs, the roadhouse also stocks a range of groceries and souvenirs.
Birdsville Bakery
If you are looking for somewhere to grab a bite to eat then you can’t go past the Birdsville Bakery. Here you will find a great selection of pies, sandwiches, wraps and cakes as well as awesome coffee. We guarantee you won’t be able to resist trying a Curried Camel Pie. It was delicious!
Artesian Borehead and Cooling Ponds
Like many outback towns, Birdsville’s water supply comes from Artesian water.
A bore sunk in 1961, brings the water to the surface at a blistering 98`. It goes firstly into cooling ponds before being pumped into the town’s water tank.
It is quite a sight to see the water bubbly out of the borehead and also the steam that comes off it.
Waddi Trees
Located just 12 kilometres out of Birdsville, on the way to Bedourie, you will find a stand of Waddi trees. These ancient trees are a species of Acacia and are believed to be around 1000 years old. They are one of only three such stands left in the whole of Australia and as such are a protected species.
Waddi wood is extremely hard and was used by the Indigenous people of the area to transport fire from camp to camp by carrying small smouldering pieces.
Where to Stay in Birdsville
We chose to stay at the Birdsville Tourist Park. This is a large park and always very busy, especially when the Big Red Bash or the Races are on.
There are over 80 powered sites available, as well as a huge unpowered area, where if you are lucky, you can have a view of the Diamantina Billabong which runs the length of the park.
Other facilities include a variety of cabins, camp kitchen, laundry and spacious amenities, which we found to be always very clean.
Free Camping Birdsville
Free camping is permitted outside of the Birdsville Town limits on the Birdsville Common. This area is between town and the Birdsville Race Track.
This area is largely flat and there are some trees around and also numerous water taps but no other facilities, so you do need to be self-contained.
Bedourie
Bedourie, meaning ‘Dust Storm’ is a small town located on the edge of the Simpson Desert.
With a population of just 100, it is a great little town that has excellent facilities for the traveller. Bedourie is located 164 kilometres north of Birdsville along the Bilby Way and getting there is half the fun as there are some great spots to stop along the way.
Around the Town of Bedourie
Bedourie is a very historic little town and the best way to learn about its history is to drop into the local Visitor Information Centre and pick up a copy of the Bedourie Historical Walking Tour info and map. The self-guided tour will take you about 80 minutes to complete.
We had, of course, heard of the famous Bedourie Camp Oven but we never knew the history behind it or that it really was named after the town of Bedourie.
Still standing today, is one of the first buildings to be built in Bedourie in 1897. Constructed of rammed earth walls, the house was built for Mrs Mary Dolan after the pub and store were destroyed in a storm.
After all that walking, a great way to refresh and relax is to visit the local Aquatic Centre and Thermal Spa. The Artesian Spa is wonderfully hot and ranges in temperature from 38 to 42 degrees. Or if you just feel like getting some exercise, then the 25-metre pool is heated to 30 degrees. Although it doesn’t feel like it if you jump straight in after being in the spa!
Carcoory Ruins
Just over 80 kilometres from Birdsville on the way to Bedourie you will come across Carcoory (also spelled Carcory) Ruins. The property was one of the first purchased by Sidney Kidman in around 1899. It was later abandoned by Kidman due to the harsh conditions of the area, which can only be described as desolate.
The remains of the homestead stand as a testament to the harshness of the Australian outback. Built of local limestone in 1877, the site is now classified by the National Trust. It can be hard to imagine what life would have been like for the early pioneers of the area but a stop at Carcoory Ruins will certainly help.
cuttaburra crossing
Cuttaburra Crossing is not only an amazing free camp spot, but it is also a stunning wetland and wildlife area.
In a permanent waterhole, on the Eyre Creek, there are even purpose-built bird hides where if you are lucky you can spot some of the many species of birds that visit the area.
The camp area is large and flat and very peaceful. It was a beautiful spot to spend a night.
Where to Stay in Bedourie
Located just out of Bedourie you will find Bedourie King Creek, a fantastic free camp right on the banks of King Creek.
If you like to do a spot of bird watching the area is home to a variety of birds including budgies, pelicans and whistling kites. There are no amenities so you will need to be self-contained and access may be restricted if it is wet.
In town, you can stay at either the Bedourie Tourist Park which is adjacent to the Aquatic Centre.
Or you can stay at the Simpson Desert Roadhouse and Oasis
There is so much to see and do when you explore the Diamantina region of outback Queensland. We loved the wide-open spaces, the amazing colours and the quirky towns.
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