After talking about driving the Gibb River Road for years, it was finally happening.
We based ourselves in Derby to do our Horizontal Falls overnight tour and left from Derby in June 2026, caravan in tow and that definite feeling of, we’re actually doing this. The Gibb had been part of our plans and conversations for such a long time that simply turning onto the road felt like the beginning of something we’d been waiting years for.
Our first destination was Windjana Gorge, where we’d booked one night at the campground. From there, the plan was to set up the caravan, explore Tunnel Creek that afternoon and walk Windjana Gorge the following morning before deciding where we’d head next.
And it didn’t take long before the Gibb started reminding us that we weren’t on the highway anymore.
Driving From Derby to Windjana Gorge
Derby is a good place to get yourself organised before starting this end of the Gibb River Road. There’s a large Woolworths as well as a really good IGA, where we found plenty of choice and lovely fresh fruit and vegetables.
I used this Vac-Pac to vacuum seal our fresh meat and chicken. And these to extend the life of our fruit and vegetables.
We stocked up before leaving because once you’re out here, you don’t have the convenience of popping into a major supermarket whenever you’ve forgotten something.
From Derby, it’s only around 6km to the Gibb River Road turnoff, followed by approximately 118km to the turnoff for Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek.
Once we turned off the Gibb onto Fairfield-Leopold Downs Road towards Windjana, the change in the road became pretty obvious. Within a couple of minutes the corrugations were getting worse, so we stopped and aired down.
For our setup, we dropped the Patrol to 25psi all round and our caravan to 30psi. Those were the pressures we chose for our particular vehicle, caravan, tyres and load rather than a recommendation for what anyone else should run.
The road itself was in fair condition when we drove it, and we had no problems towing our caravan into Windjana Gorge. That’s how we found it in June 2026, though, so it’s worth checking current road conditions before heading in with your own setup.
Camping at Windjana Gorge
We’d pre-booked Windjana Gorge Campground, although in our case “pre-booked” meant we’d done it the night before. There is no internet coverage there and although we do use Starlink we don’t have it connected when travelling.
There aren’t individually allocated campsites. Once you’re in the area you’ve booked, you find a suitable vacant spot and set yourself up. We had no trouble finding somewhere for the caravan.
There are toilets and showers, along with some shade from the trees, although don’t arrive expecting huge shady trees covering the campground. There is no drinking water provided, so you need to arrive self-sufficient.
Current camping fees are charged per person, per night, and park entry fees also apply unless you’re covered by an appropriate WA Parks pass. As fees can change, I’d check the current WA Parks information when you’re planning your own trip.
Pets aren’t permitted in the national park or campground.
Visiting Tunnel Creek From Windjana Gorge
Once we’d set up the caravan, we left it at Windjana and drove to Tunnel Creek without it. It took us roughly 20 to 30 minutes, and the unsealed road was fine when we travelled it.
Tunnel Creek was one of the places I’d really been looking forward to, and it turned out to be great fun. The official walk is around 2km return and takes you through a natural tunnel carved through the Napier Range.
And yes, you’re going to get wet.
Getting into Tunnel Creek involves climbing over rocks and boulders before making your way into the tunnel itself. We’d come prepared with head torches and shoes that we were happy to get wet. I wore reef shoes, while Kev wore an old pair of sneakers that have effectively become his water shoes.
What I hadn’t prepared properly was my head torch.
I’d checked that it worked. What I hadn’t checked was how much life was left in the battery. Once we were inside, it became pretty obvious that my head torch was far too dim.
I tried using the torch on my phone instead, which I can now confirm isn’t particularly convenient when you’re trying to make your way through a very dark, wet and rocky tunnel. Fortunately, we’d also brought a handheld torch, so my number one Tunnel Creek tip is simple: check your head torch batteries and take a backup light as well.
The walk itself was easier than I’d expected. It was rocky and slippery in places, and we were wading through water for sections of it, but we didn’t find it particularly difficult. At the deepest point the water came to around my knees, while it was shallower on Kev because he’s taller than me.
Water levels obviously vary, so don’t assume that’s how deep it will be when you visit.
We didn’t see any crocodiles inside Tunnel Creek during our visit. We spent somewhere between an hour and two hours exploring and walked all the way through to the other end before returning the same way.
And the other end is worth reaching. You emerge from the darkness into this beautiful setting that, to me, looked like something straight out of the dinosaur era. After making your way through the dark tunnel, scrambling over rocks and wading through water, suddenly stepping out into that landscape was pretty special.
Then, of course, you turn around and do it all again.
If you’re planning to do Tunnel Creek yourself, I’d take a good head torch plus a backup light, drinking water and footwear that can get wet while still giving you decent grip over the rocks. You’ll be carrying everything with you as you wade through the tunnel, so there’s no need to take more than you actually need.
Walking Windjana Gorge
After spending the night at Windjana Campground, we headed out to explore the gorge at around 8:30 the following morning.
It wasn’t particularly hot when we walked, but we still wore hats, carried water and took a backpack. Temperatures in this part of the Kimberley can climb quickly, so I’d still choose an earlier start rather than heading out in the middle of the day.
Windjana Gorge is absolutely spectacular. The gorge cuts through the Napier Range, part of an ancient Devonian reef system, and during the dry season the Lennard River retreats into pools through the gorge.
Those pools are also where you’re likely to find one of Windjana’s most famous residents: freshwater crocodiles. We saw a group of around three or four together as well as another one or two on their own, and we also spotted wallabies during our walk.
The Orange Loop at Windjana Gorge
We chose to do the Orange Loop, which was marked as a Class 4 walk during our visit.
We’ve done a few Class 4 walks around Australia, so I was expecting it to be considerably harder than it turned out to be. The track was straightforward, good underfoot and not particularly strenuous. There were a few inclines, but nothing we found difficult.
The suggested time was around an hour and a half, but we completed the entire loop in about 40 minutes.
That’s not me suggesting everyone should expect to walk it in 40 minutes. Walking times depend enormously on fitness, conditions, how often you stop and how much time you spend looking around. But compared with other Class 4 walks we’ve done, we found this one much easier than its classification had led us to expect.
Watch Our First Gibb River Road Stops
Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge are both places that make much more sense when you can actually see them.
In Episode 2 of our All Around Oz travel series, you can come along as we leave Derby, tow the caravan into Windjana Gorge, explore Tunnel Creek and walk the Orange Loop the following morning.
This was the point where our Gibb River Road adventure finally felt properly underway.
Can You Take a Caravan to Windjana Gorge?
We did, and we had no problems towing our caravan from the Gibb River Road along Fairfield-Leopold Downs Road to the campground.
Whether you should do the same depends on the conditions at the time and your own vehicle, caravan and experience. The Kimberley isn’t somewhere I’d make that decision based solely on somebody else’s trip report, including ours, so check the latest road information before setting out.
When Can You Visit Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek?
These are dry-season destinations. Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) National Park generally opens during the dry season, while access to Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) depends on the end of the wet season and current road conditions.
Our visit was in June 2026 and we had good conditions for both places, but access can change after weather, so check the latest WA Parks and road information as part of your planning.
Should You Visit Both Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek?
If your itinerary allows it, I wouldn’t choose between them because they’re completely different experiences. Tunnel Creek is the more adventurous of the two, with rocks to negotiate, darkness and sections where you’ll be walking through water. Windjana Gorge gives you the huge gorge walls, a more straightforward walk and the chance to see freshwater crocodiles and other wildlife.
Staying at Windjana Campground made it easy for us to experience both without rushing. One night gave us enough time to visit Tunnel Creek during the afternoon and walk Windjana Gorge the following morning before packing up and continuing along the Gibb.
What We’d Do Again
I’d stock up properly in Derby before leaving, just as we did, and I’d definitely visit Windjana if we were following the same itinerary again. Next time though we’d stay at Lennard River Rest Area (also known as Lennard River Free Camp), near the turnoff to Windjana Campground and Tunnel Creek. Having the caravan there meant we could set up once and explore Tunnel Creek without towing.
I’d also take exactly the same sort of footwear into Tunnel Creek and absolutely take two sources of light again. The only difference is that next time I’d actually check the batteries in my head torch first.
Our First Taste of the Gibb River Road
Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek turned out to be a great way to start our Gibb River Road trip. Tunnel Creek gave us the more adventurous walk, while Windjana was completely different, with its huge gorge walls, wildlife and freshwater crocs.
But I think the thing I’ll remember most is simply the excitement of finally being there. We’d talked about the Gibb River Road for years, and now the tyres were aired down, there was red dirt under the caravan and we’d officially started it.
When we left Windjana we weren’t entirely sure where we’d spend the next night. Our loose plan was to head towards Silent Grove, have a look and decide from there.
As it turned out, that’s exactly where we stayed, and that’s where the next part of our Gibb River Road adventure begins.
With years of experience travelling Australia in a caravan, I’m passionate about helping others embark on their own unforgettable adventures. From off-grid camping tips to expert advice on planning the ultimate big lap of Australia, I share stories, practical hacks, and inspiration to make your journey stress-free and exciting. Whether you’re a seasoned traveller or just starting out, join me as I explore the beauty of Australia, one road at a time!